Why is colored spinning increasingly popular and what are its advantages and disadvantages?
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In recent years, color spinning products have been increasingly favored by people, and many color spinning enterprises still maintain good profits in unfavorable environments. So, what are the advantages of color spinning? What is the big difference between the production technology of color spun yarn and general natural color spun yarn?
The advantages of color spinning
1. Unique colors
The color of colored spun yarn is a fiber blending style, different from the pure coloring of natural colored yarn or fabric. The raw materials for color spinning contain at least one type of colored fiber, which is formed by mixing fibers of different colors thoroughly during spinning. So, fabrics made of color spun yarn can present a "spatial blending" effect and have a layered transformation.
2. Low carbon and environmental protection
Color spinning reverses the traditional process of spinning before dyeing, which involves coloring the fibers first and then mixing them with spinning. However, most color spun products do not entirely use colored fibers. 40% -50% of the raw materials for color spun yarn are natural colored fibers, with only some being colored. So it is relatively more energy-efficient and environmentally friendly.
Natural fiber serves two purposes as a raw material for color spinning: first, as a color (white); The second is for adjusting the depth of all color spun yarn products.
For example, the common light colored cotton linen gray yarn, ordinary colored cotton only accounts for about 10%, which means about 90% of cotton fibers are uncolored and pure natural.
It should be noted that if the colored fibers in colored textile products are chemical fibers, their production process can be completely pollution-free. For example, some colored chemical fibers adopt the "original solution coloring" technology and add color masterbatch during the spinning process, resulting in a pollution-free and zero emission production process.
3. Color advantage
The traditional "spinning before dyeing" process, due to differences in chemical properties, results in different coloring properties of fibers, which brings trouble to the coloring of yarns and fabrics after blending chemical fibers. Color spinning adopts the process of "coloring first and spinning later", which precisely solves the problem of color matching in mixed chemical fiber fabrics with opposite fibers.
Because the coloring process mentions before spinning, regardless of the type of fiber material: natural, recycled, synthetic; No matter what coloring process is required: high-temperature and high-pressure coloring, or room temperature and normal pressure coloring; No matter what type of dye: active, dispersed, direct, reducing... can be broken down one by one, separated and colored, and then combined perfectly. Therefore, the coloring of multi raw material blended chemical fiber fabrics is no longer difficult.
4. Product development advantages
The development of natural color spun yarn products is mainly based on the changes in fiber materials and spinning technology, such as:
New functional fiber raw materials: These conceptual new fibers include: bamboo fiber, soybean fiber, milk fiber, and chitosan fiber; Functionality includes anti UV, antibacterial and deodorizing, moisture wicking, flame retardant and flame retardant, water blocking, oil proof, easy anti fouling, far-infrared, anti-static, anti electromagnetic radiation, and so on.
New spinning technologies: close spinning and Siro yarn are smoother, bamboo yarn has a delicate and changing style, jet vortex yarn absorbs moisture and dries quickly, and is not easy to pilling and pilling, etc.
The method of developing new products with natural color spinning thread can introduce color spinning, and new variations can also emerge. In addition to being able to change based on fibers and technology, color spinning also has elements of color and art, which gives color spinning a broader space. Example:
1. Dissolved products
Fashion made from this type of spinning thread product can be easily transformed into another style by consumers after using it for a period of time.
In fact, it is a new product produced by water-soluble fibers entering color spinning. For natural color spinning, water-soluble fibers can open up hollow yarn and loose yarn, with a soft hand feel. After spinning out the yarn, water-soluble fibers are dissolved, creating gaps in the spinning thread fabric, resulting in hollow, loose and soft yarns. Color spinning is also possible. Color spinning can also develop color changing products. Colored water-soluble fibers are a small proportion of color yarn. When this small proportion dissolves in water, the color ratio in the color yarn changes, and the spinning thread fabric changes to a different color.
When consumers use this type of clothing, as long as it is not in contact with high-temperature water, it will not change color. After using it for a period of time, just soak the clothing in moderate hot water for a certain amount of time to clean, and the color will change. For example, an orange product should be composed of three types of colored fibers, with the main body being natural fibers, some yellow fibers, and a small portion of red fibers. If water-soluble fibers are used for this red part, when the red color dissolves in water, the orange color will turn into a light yellow.
2. Colored porcelain yarn
Capturing inspiration from nature and cultural life, using fiber blending to create a colorful yarn with a unique color style, you will imagine handicrafts and porcelain, injecting a sense of nobility, elegance, and mystery into clothing.
3. Duan Caisha
Along the length of the spun yarn, another color will appear intermittently, also known as rainbow yarn. It is actually a small magnification bamboo yarn, with colored segments and small magnification bamboo knots along the length direction of the spun yarn. If dissected, it will be found that there are mainly some extra colored fibers. In fact, Duan Caisha is a variant product of ordinary bamboo yarn in color spinning.
4. Two tone colorful yarn
The Siro spinning technology has entered color spinning, and with the introduction of color elements, it has evolved into dual color yarn and colorful yarn, mainly because the two phase yarn strips fed into the spinning machine adopt different colors.
Extending this technology to the roving process, changing the usual single cotton sliver feeding method to a double feeding method of "cotton sliver ten roving", has evolved into another colorful style of roving Siro spinning technology.
5. Colored dot yarn
Originating from the nep defect, nep was originally a defect that appeared during the spinning process. Color spinning specifically enlarged it, and the larger nep defect transformed into a colored dot, giving birth to a new product of colored dot yarn.
There are also silk colored dot yarns, silk rain yarns, textured yarns, cloud patterned yarns, and so on, which can be understood as: the colored dots in the yarn are replaced with messy, fine and fragmented small segments.
These methods can also be combined, such as the fusion technology and the combination of Duan Cai and Cai Dian technologies. Duan Cai and Cai Dian can change, orange yellow can turn into yellow or red, and colored dots can turn into colorless dots, which can bring endless changes.
Technical problems and solutions of color spinning
Color spinning is in line with mainstream development trends and has advantages. However, compared to natural color spinning, the production of color spinning, especially high-quality products, cannot guarantee product quality by adopting the general process of natural color spinning.
1. Color mixing problem
For the development of color spinning and color spinning products, if the fibers of various colors are mixed unevenly and made into yarn or fabric, the surface of the fabric is not a three-dimensional, implicit, and hazy color style, but a color difference and horizontal deviation between pieces, which is defective yarn or waste fabric.
In fact, natural color spinning also has color mixing technology, which is the mixing function of cleaning, combing, blending, and finishing sequences. Although the raw materials for each label are all naturally white, there may be slight differences in color. Xinjiang cotton tends to be white, while inland and coastal cotton tends to be relatively yellow. Only by mixing them can they dissolve into one color. But during the season when new cotton is on the market, if there is slight improper cotton blending, yellow and white yarn will be produced, because the difference in yellow and white between new cotton and old cotton is significant, indicating that the mixing function of the universal spinning process is limited.
The color difference of raw materials for color spinning is much greater than that of natural color spinning. For example, the common hemp grey yarn is produced by blending black cotton and white cotton into synthetic fabrics, with a black and white difference. Compared to the slight yellow and white difference between old cotton and new cotton, it is much larger. Universal blending techniques cannot meet the needs of color spinning.
2. Sample color matching issue
The regular varieties of natural color spinning can be sold after production, but different from color spinning, it is common to make a sample first, confirm with the customer, and sign an order before production, especially in the production of colored yarn.
There are requirements for sampling:
One is to be precise. If the color of the sample produced and the sample received is not accurate, the customer will not place an order; The second is to be fast, and the cost of making samples cannot be very long. If it is slow, you will not be able to grab orders. This is due to market demand. Color spun yarn is mainly used for knitted clothing. Designers meet people's fashion needs by changing local colors or collectively changing the collar and sleeves of clothing. Fashion is constantly changing due to time, place, and season, which determines the demand for small varieties, multiple batches, and fast speed of color spun yarn. Enterprises that cannot respond quickly will be eliminated from the market; Thirdly, the cost of making samples should be low, and only a small amount of raw materials can be used to make yarn and fabric samples. To be able to spin a small amount or trace amount of yarn sample and weave a small amount of fabric sample using hundreds, tens, or even a few grams or even a few tens of grams of raw materials. If making this sample requires consuming tens or hundreds of kilograms of raw materials, then there is no intention, and the subsequent orders may only be a few tens of kilograms.
After sampling, it is more important to ensure that the color of the products produced in large-scale production is accurate, that is, the color matching of large-scale production. Large scale production is always based on the color ratio determined by pre sampling, but the determined color ratio may change during the production process due to some reasons. For example, the usual cleaning and combing process involves cotton drop, and the proportion of each component in the cotton drop and the ratio of raw cotton with various labels will not be the same. Even small changes in the color separation ratio of each component in color spinning may bring significant visual differences. Color spinning production is different from natural color spinning. The quality A of conventional varieties of natural color yarn does not meet the requirements of high-end customers. The loss can be reduced by reducing the price and selling to mid to low-end customers. Color spinning is an order system, and making the color wrong is difficult to handle. Not only is the yarn invalid, but the customer's order delay also bears the responsibility.
3. The problem of discolored yarn defects
The typical defects of heterochromatic yarn are heterochromatic dots and heterochromatic flying flowers.
① Heterochromatic dots
Heterochromatic spots are mainly colored cotton knots. Spinning must face the problems of neps and impurities. When spinning with natural colors, larger neps and impurities will form defects on the fabric surface. It is necessary to remove the neps and impurities through flower cleaning, carding, and combing, and control them within the agreed range. Knots and impurities are reflected as color dots in color spinning. Color yarn is composed of a combination of multi-color fibers in a mixed color, but the impurities in the yarn are usually one of the fiber colors, which makes it more likely to appear as defects. For example, on the surface of a light colored linen gray yarn fabric made of a blend of small proportion black cotton and large proportion white cotton. Black spots are easily visible as defects; On the contrary, on the dark linen grey fabric made of a blend of high proportion black cotton and low proportion white cotton, white spots are easily visible as defects.
② Heterochromatic flying flower yarn defects
Similarly, natural color spinning also has the problem of heterochromatic yarn defects, which belong to the category of heterochromatic fibers. So there are methods and means such as manual picking of raw cotton, cleaning equipment for abnormal fibers, and detection function for abnormal fibers through winding and electric cleaning. But relying on these methods to solve the problem of color yarn defects in color spinning production is unrealistic.
Artificial selection of raw cotton and cleaning equipment for removing foreign fibers can eliminate the foreign fiber components in the raw materials of natural color spinning. However, the raw materials of different varieties of color spinning are each other's foreign color components, and the raw materials of each component of the same variety are also foreign color components. It is impossible to discard the raw materials of other varieties as foreign fibers, or to keep only one type of raw material of each component of the same variety and discard the other; The manual picking of raw cotton and the use of equipment to remove foreign fibers during the cleaning process cannot solve the problem of foreign colored yarn defects that occur during the production process.
The winding tube electric cleaning abnormal fiber detection function can detect a small amount of residual abnormal fiber components in the natural color yarn and remove them, thereby ensuring the quality of the spinning thread. However, for color spinning, it is not realistic to rely solely on the electric cleaning of the winding drum to remove color yarn defects. If there are no effective technical measures in the previous spinning process, a large number of color yarn defects will inevitably occur, leading to a situation where the electric cleaning frequency cuts the yarn defects and the winding drum is inefficient and paralyzed. The function of detecting abnormal fibers through electric cleaning of the winding tube can only serve as an auxiliary technical measure for removing abnormal yarn defects in color spinning.
Technical solution
1. Color spinning mixed color
A natural logic for achieving uniform color mixing in color spinning is to add mixing methods. Usually, color spinning enterprises add a mixing process before cotton cleaning, which includes manual mixing, cotton grabbing machine mixing, flower machine mixing, and specialized machine mixing.
Color spinning mixing cannot be understood as just an easy addition to mixing methods. The process principle of color spinning and mixing is that the mixing method should not only be meticulous, but also gentle. This involves the particularity of the raw materials for color spinning and the particularity of the process. Some of the fibers and colored cotton in the raw materials of colored spinning are dyed from natural cotton. During the coloring process, the cotton fibers are subjected to acid, alkali, high temperature, mechanical action, etc., making them very fragile. Simply pursuing mixing and uniformity, repeatedly applying the mixing function in the general spinning process, and achieving meticulous mixing at the cost of sacrificing fiber spinnability through destructive means is meaningless.
2. Sample color matching method
The color spinning sample requires special process methods for color matching, and a key technical point is how to use raw materials of several hundred grams, tens of grams, or even a few grams or even a few tens of grams to spin small or trace amounts of yarn samples. This is definitely not using the usual spinning process, but requires specialized micro sample spinning technology; In addition, to ensure accurate color during the production process of color spinning, special color matching and color matching techniques can be adopted.
3. Prevent defects in colored yarn
The methods for preventing yarn defects such as color spots and flying flowers in color spinning involve technical methods such as "double combing process" and "closed isolation". The so-called "double combing process" is not an easy repetitive application of cleaning and combing processes; "Closed isolation" is not easy to separate spinning machines that produce different colored products with partition walls. The double comb process should follow the principle of double comb process; Closed isolation requires mastering the techniques of closed isolation.
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